How to escape the cortisol-spiking rat race that is life in a city? In times of great stress I typically return to my long-held fantasy of becoming a florist and living in a stone cottage (with no WiFi) on the edge of a cliff on an island not far (but far enough) from the mainland. For now, I don’t think this alternate life I’ve envisioned for myself is going to become a reality, but until then there is always the Fife Arms in Braemar, Aberdeenshire.
A stone’s throw from King Charles’s beautiful Balmoral estate, within the Cairngorms National Park, the Fife Arms is a five-star 19th century coaching inn which offers just the kind of off-the-beaten track lifestyle I so desire, with the addition of fabulous interiors and art, plus some great food to boot.
There are many things that make this spot a rejuvenating destination for both body and mind. Firstly, it’s a total feast for the senses. Thousands of art pieces line the walls, floors and ceilings. It’s owned by the Wirths – of Hauser & Wirth fame – and the foyer alone is home to a Lucian Freud portrait. A casual Picasso adorns the tartan-clad drawing room (don’t forget to look up at the trippy swirling ceiling by Zhang Enli), and Gideon Summerfield’s portraits of the local community decorate the Fife’s in-house pub.
The interiors, meanwhile, marry old-school Scottish fabrics and antique wooden pieces with comfort and luxury. There is an Elsa Schiaparelli-inspired Art Deco bar, which delivers on the glamour (and cocktails) front, while Bertie’s Whisky Bar is a dimly-lit and sexy alternative spot for a nightcap. Put simply, when my cottage dream finally becomes a reality, I’ll be Pinteresting the hell out of this place.
What really sets this place apart, however, are its show-stopping surroundings. There are hills to climb, with Scotland’s famously moody weather making every trip outside (or glance out of the window, in fact) a cinematic experience. We made use of the AllTrails walking app, which details different local walks according to difficulty and length, but all of which promise the most glorious views – enough to instantly erase 75 per cent of lingering rat-race stress. I also highly recommend visiting Balmoral, which is open to the public at certain times of the year. The gardens in particular are heavenly, filled with wildflowers and homegrown vegetables.
As for the Fife’s wild wellness experiences – I can’t recommend them enough. Annie Armstrong, a local ecologist and nature fanatic who knows the area inside out, is on hand to take you on guided walks (to places you probably wouldn’t go of your own accord), and share her knowledge of local beauty spots. (We even passed areas where King Charles has been known to forage for mushrooms.) Wild swimming, which is excellent for mental and physical health, is another option here. Yes, it’s icy cold, but afterwards, you can enjoy sitting by the fire in a cosy, riverside tent and warm up with a hot drink. After that, I suggest 20 minutes in the hotel sauna.
In a world full of wellness hacks, this simple combination of hot and cold therapy – in a place that lends itself well to satisfying the body’s innate need to be immersed in nature – makes a trip here a tonic for frantic minds. Who really needs a spa?
I can’t not mention the food. I enjoyed one of my best meals in recent memory at the local Fish Shop, a short drive away in Ballater (and a favourite of Margot Robbie, who visited a couple of weeks before us). From oysters to buttery Dover sole and samphire galore, book a table for the freshest and most delicious seafood.
A couple of months on from my visit, I’m still dreaming of drinking red wine by a roaring fire after a ramble in the Cairngorms. Arriving back in London fully de-stressed made my stay at the Fife Arms more than just a lovely holiday, it served as a mental reset and a wellness escape, too, and right here in the UK.
Starting rates for a Nature & Poetry Suite start from £434 per night including VAT and breakfast. For more information or to book, please visit www.thefifearms.com.